Tuesday, April 7, 2015
Growing Tomatoes Organically
Tomato Seeds Vs. Tomato Seedlings?
Whether you start your own tomato seeds or buy tomato seedlings, growing them organically will produce healthier plants and better tasting tomatoes.
Tomatoes are one of the most popular summer crops grown in the U.S. High in vitamins and minerals, tomatoes are a healthy and delicious addition to any back yard garden.
Tomatoes are native to the tropical areas of Central and South America, where they grow as perennials. However, in most of the United States tomatoes are grown as annuals. In the southern states they can be grown directly from seeds planted in the ground, but in the north they must be started indoors seven to ten weeks before the last frost in your area, and then transplanted to the garden as seedlings. If you dont have the time or space to start your own tomatoes indoors, tomato seedlings are available almost everywhere at planting time. Tomato seedlings should not be transplanted outside until nighttime temperatures are above 50F, unless you have a means of protecting them if the temperature drops.
Determinate Tomatoes Vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes
Determinate tomatoes are the bush type. They need less staking and are the better choice for growing in containers. I have had great success growing bush type tomatoes in containers of straight organic compost with just some PH adjustment. All tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil (6.0 7.0). Determinate tomatoes set all their fruit and then ripen all at once. For this reason determinate tomatoes are also a good choice for canning, especially if you have a small crop.
Indeterminate Tomatoes are the vine type. This type of tomato continues to make new fruit right up until the first frost, and is a good choice if you want fresh tomatoes for the entire season (I suggest growing some of both types).
Indeterminate tomatoes can be left to sprawl on the ground, but this makes them harder to harvest and more susceptible to rotting from contact with the ground. For this reason most gardeners use some method of support to keep their tomatoes growing in a more orderly fashion. Wire cages are the simplest method of supporting tomato plants. They come pre-made in varying sizes or can be made from fencing and can contain a plant without the need for training (pinching back the suckers that occur between each leaf and stem junction. These turn into additional stems.) Hint: If you make you own cages, use a mesh large enough to get your hand through.
Indeterminate tomatoes may also be staked and trained to have only one stem, or they can be grown along a trellis and trained to have two or three stems. These two methods also require that you tie the tomato stems to the supports as they continue to grow. While training tomatoes is more work, by limiting the number of stems and therefore the number of tomatoes, the resulting fruit will be bigger and juicer (for that one slice tomato sandwich). Caging however will save you time and produce ample amounts of tomatoes that are superior to what you'll find in the supermarket.
Hybrid Tomatoes Vs. Heirloom Tomatoes
Heirloom tomatoes have not been altered and will produce fertile seeds that can be saved and grown to produce the same fruit in following years. Hybrid tomatoes will have sterile seeds or seeds that will produce one of the original varieties that made up the hybrid in the first place. I personally believe it is important to preserve heirloom varieties. Also, by saving seeds and replanting them, the resulting plants will become more adapted to your specific climate and soil type.
Hybrid tomatoes are acceptable to the organic gardener, provided they have not been genetically altered. Many hybrid types of tomato are resistant to disease and or insects. The VFN indication on plant labels refers to resistance to Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium Wilt and Nematodes respectively.
Whether you choose to grow heirloom varieties or hybrids, good organic gardening practices, will lessen the chances your plants will succumb to insects or disease. The use of plenty of rich organic compost, companion planting with herbs and flowers, generous mulching and regular watering, will all enhances your plants overall health and productivity.
Tips on Growing Organic Tomatoes
As with all plants, tomatoes benefit from the generous use of organic compost added to the soil.
Use plenty of mulch, not only to conserve water and hold down weeds, but also to minimize contact with soil born disease. (I prefer natural mulch to plastic. I use seaweed but leaves and glass clippings work well also)
When planting seedlings, don't loosen roots as you would with some transplants. Remove lower leaves and plant so only the top leaves are above the ground. If plants are very leggy, they can be planted on their side with the top turned gently upright to protrude from the soil.
Water plants regularly in early morning preferably. Watering should be done at ground level rather than spraying the leaves.
Apply fish emulsion periodically to organically supply trace minerals that contribute to healthy plants.
Top dress with more compost midway through the season
Companion plant with basil, dill or borage to attract beneficial wasps whose parasitic larvae feed on hornworms.
Good luck with your organic tomatoes. If you haven't grown them before your in for a treat!
Chip Phelan, a contributing editor for Organic Gardening Review, is an organic gardener living in Rhode Island. Organic Gardening Review is a resource center for organic gardening enthusiast. Find us on the web: http://www.organic-gardening-review.com
Looking for a place to share organic gardening info? Visit our Organic Gardening Discussion Forum at: Organic Gardening Forum.
Composting and Composters: A Basic Introduction
Why Compost?
Recent studies show that an average family throws away approximately 200 pounds of organic kitchen waste every year. Combine this with all the leaves, grass clippings and other organic garden waste accumulated over time and that's a lot of household waste being added to the already mountainous waste disposal problem. Some local authorities are refusing to take away green waste from gardening and others charge for the service in an effort to curb mounting costs and then when you add in the environmental costs of adding new landfill sites, road transport emissions from ferrying all this waste around and potentially incineration and the fumes that releases the environmental advantages of composting are clear.
In slightly more selfish terms, if you are a gardener then you will know the relatively high cost of fertilizer. Well, OK an average gardener's yearly fertilizer expenditure is not going to break the bank but when you can get fertilizer for free out of the stuff you throw away then it starts looking extremely expensive. Composting simply makes good environmental and financial sense and it's so easy to do there's nothing stopping you.
What Do I Need To Begin?
A compost bin, box, enclosure or handy place to put an open compost heap. Cheap plastic composters and compost bins can be bought from all good garden centers and are quite inexpensive depending on your requirements. A plastic compost bin is generally the cheapest whilst wood composters are generally more attractive additions to your garden but a little more costly. An open heap (just create a pile somewhere) is also an option but it is advisable to have some sort of cover like a tarpaulin available for colder periods of weather.
Another slightly different alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermicomposting or wormeries. These use a special kind of worms to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material from their casts and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If do a lot of greenhouse gardening or have a lot of houseplants then a wormery may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste.
If you do not want to actually spend money on a composter then building your own isn't exactly difficult if you do not mind picking up a hammer and nails. Nail together a few wooden pallets for example and you've got an enclosure suitable for composting. For plans and ideas on how to assemble your own composter at little cost, simply head to your favourite search engine and type in phrases like "build your own composter" or "compost bin plans" for an endless supply of simple ideas typically costing under $30.
Where To Put Your Compost
Whether you purchase a composting bin or make your own composter you need to make sure you have a flat, well drained place in your garden not too far away that you begrudge taking your kitchen scraps out to it. Compost bins should not be placed on concrete, patio areas etc. as you want to allow the insects, worms and microorganisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost without hindrance.
In addition, choose a site which suits your climate. Warmth and moisture helps the composting process so place your composter in a place which receives a fair amount of sunlight and shelter from the wind if you live in a cooler climate and if in a hotter climate, ensure you give it shade to prevent it drying out.
What Materials Can You Compost?
Pretty much all your organic household and garden waste is an eligible candidate for composting although there are a few exceptions. Things to particularly avoid are meat, fish, bones, fats and oils, dairy products like milk and cheese, dog and cat droppings as these can attract animals, create foul smells as they degrade and carry nasty diseases. Also, whilst weeds and plants can be added, it is advised to dry out persistent weeds and remove seed heads before adding these. Ashes are also best avoided, as are glossy magazines although shredded paper and cardboard are fine to add. Feel free to add waste fruit and vegetables, crushed egg shells, coffee grounds (worms love them!) and tea bags, hair, leaves, grass clippings and other organic waste. As a general rule, if in doubt, leave it out but most organic waste will rot down just fine and if you shred it or cut it up smaller, it will compost faster.
How Long Before It Becomes Compost?
This depends on the balance of materials in your compost heap, the weather and the amount of time you can devote to the project. If you want to take an active managed approach to your composting then you can have a fully composted pile in 3 months but if your only desire is to dispose of kitchen and garden waste in a more 'green' manner then it can take 6 months to a year or longer.
Managed composting can produce a 'hot rot' with very fast results but it does require additional effort on your behalf to keep it going. A managed, hot compost heap with an excellent balance of materials can reach temperatures of 70 degree Celsius but requires regular turning and nurturing with careful layering and balance of browns and greens in the mix, shredding materials and maintaining a good moisture level.
An unmanaged cool heap is however much easier to maintain and rots down at up to 30 degrees Celsius with little input from you. Just throwing your waste on the heap will give you a cooler heap which will rot down more slowly but is fine for green waste disposal purposes.
There are ways to increase the rate of the composting process in both cases by, for example, adding composting worms, or by using an activator which help speed up the process. The addition of a handful or soil now and then or horse manure will also add micro-organisms to speed up the composting process free of charge.
For The Best Compost...
...use a wide variety of different materials. The more varied the materials you add to the compost pile, the nutrient rich your final compost will be. Compost made from kitchen and garden waste is the best food for your plants and at the same time you are helping the environment and saving yourself and your local government money into the bargain.
Mark Falco is the webmaster of the British gardening shopping guide found at http://www.ukgardeningsupplies.co.uk which includes where to buy composting accessories including composters, compost worms and accessories as well as garden tools, furniture, plants and gardening accessories online for UK delivery.
Recent studies show that an average family throws away approximately 200 pounds of organic kitchen waste every year. Combine this with all the leaves, grass clippings and other organic garden waste accumulated over time and that's a lot of household waste being added to the already mountainous waste disposal problem. Some local authorities are refusing to take away green waste from gardening and others charge for the service in an effort to curb mounting costs and then when you add in the environmental costs of adding new landfill sites, road transport emissions from ferrying all this waste around and potentially incineration and the fumes that releases the environmental advantages of composting are clear.
In slightly more selfish terms, if you are a gardener then you will know the relatively high cost of fertilizer. Well, OK an average gardener's yearly fertilizer expenditure is not going to break the bank but when you can get fertilizer for free out of the stuff you throw away then it starts looking extremely expensive. Composting simply makes good environmental and financial sense and it's so easy to do there's nothing stopping you.
What Do I Need To Begin?
A compost bin, box, enclosure or handy place to put an open compost heap. Cheap plastic composters and compost bins can be bought from all good garden centers and are quite inexpensive depending on your requirements. A plastic compost bin is generally the cheapest whilst wood composters are generally more attractive additions to your garden but a little more costly. An open heap (just create a pile somewhere) is also an option but it is advisable to have some sort of cover like a tarpaulin available for colder periods of weather.
Another slightly different alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermicomposting or wormeries. These use a special kind of worms to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material from their casts and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If do a lot of greenhouse gardening or have a lot of houseplants then a wormery may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste.
If you do not want to actually spend money on a composter then building your own isn't exactly difficult if you do not mind picking up a hammer and nails. Nail together a few wooden pallets for example and you've got an enclosure suitable for composting. For plans and ideas on how to assemble your own composter at little cost, simply head to your favourite search engine and type in phrases like "build your own composter" or "compost bin plans" for an endless supply of simple ideas typically costing under $30.
Where To Put Your Compost
Whether you purchase a composting bin or make your own composter you need to make sure you have a flat, well drained place in your garden not too far away that you begrudge taking your kitchen scraps out to it. Compost bins should not be placed on concrete, patio areas etc. as you want to allow the insects, worms and microorganisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost without hindrance.
In addition, choose a site which suits your climate. Warmth and moisture helps the composting process so place your composter in a place which receives a fair amount of sunlight and shelter from the wind if you live in a cooler climate and if in a hotter climate, ensure you give it shade to prevent it drying out.
What Materials Can You Compost?
Pretty much all your organic household and garden waste is an eligible candidate for composting although there are a few exceptions. Things to particularly avoid are meat, fish, bones, fats and oils, dairy products like milk and cheese, dog and cat droppings as these can attract animals, create foul smells as they degrade and carry nasty diseases. Also, whilst weeds and plants can be added, it is advised to dry out persistent weeds and remove seed heads before adding these. Ashes are also best avoided, as are glossy magazines although shredded paper and cardboard are fine to add. Feel free to add waste fruit and vegetables, crushed egg shells, coffee grounds (worms love them!) and tea bags, hair, leaves, grass clippings and other organic waste. As a general rule, if in doubt, leave it out but most organic waste will rot down just fine and if you shred it or cut it up smaller, it will compost faster.
How Long Before It Becomes Compost?
This depends on the balance of materials in your compost heap, the weather and the amount of time you can devote to the project. If you want to take an active managed approach to your composting then you can have a fully composted pile in 3 months but if your only desire is to dispose of kitchen and garden waste in a more 'green' manner then it can take 6 months to a year or longer.
Managed composting can produce a 'hot rot' with very fast results but it does require additional effort on your behalf to keep it going. A managed, hot compost heap with an excellent balance of materials can reach temperatures of 70 degree Celsius but requires regular turning and nurturing with careful layering and balance of browns and greens in the mix, shredding materials and maintaining a good moisture level.
An unmanaged cool heap is however much easier to maintain and rots down at up to 30 degrees Celsius with little input from you. Just throwing your waste on the heap will give you a cooler heap which will rot down more slowly but is fine for green waste disposal purposes.
There are ways to increase the rate of the composting process in both cases by, for example, adding composting worms, or by using an activator which help speed up the process. The addition of a handful or soil now and then or horse manure will also add micro-organisms to speed up the composting process free of charge.
For The Best Compost...
...use a wide variety of different materials. The more varied the materials you add to the compost pile, the nutrient rich your final compost will be. Compost made from kitchen and garden waste is the best food for your plants and at the same time you are helping the environment and saving yourself and your local government money into the bargain.
Mark Falco is the webmaster of the British gardening shopping guide found at http://www.ukgardeningsupplies.co.uk which includes where to buy composting accessories including composters, compost worms and accessories as well as garden tools, furniture, plants and gardening accessories online for UK delivery.
Monday, March 23, 2015
Sunday, March 8, 2015
Container Gardening - How to Brighten Up the Paved Courtyard
By
Lee-Ann Clark
Submitted On May 03, 2014
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee-Ann_Clark
Never let it be said that container gardens are second best to
those gardens on the soil. They may be labor intensive but being as rich
and extravagant as your pocket will allow is their reward. Containers
solve many problems for would-be gardeners. They are the answer to a
paved courtyard or a roof terrace or a balcony. They are an excellent
solution for people who cannot bend easily to dig. A collection of
window boxes can be used as a finishing touch to a house. Whatever the
purpose the choice of containers is enormous.
Ground rules for container gardens that need to be considered are the potting and re-potting of the plants, the work involved in occasionally changing the soil and most importantly you need to consider the watering of the pots. Is there adequate drainage? All containers have to have holes drilled at the bottom for correct drainage. Is there a water supply nearby? Will you be able to use liquid feeds? Watering is by far the greatest chore and it needs to be done regularly and generously. Rain is never enough on its own and a downpour will fool you into thinking the containers are wetter than they really are. It is important to decide whether to plant all year round or whether to let your pots stand empty in winter. Remember that plants that are hardy in the soil might succumb to the cold when their roots are raised in a container that is open to frosts. Frozen water logged soil can also burst containers as it expands. The same can be said for the summer months when the containers get very hot. It is all too easy to bake the roots of the plant.
With all this in mind, choosing your containers and designing your garden is the fun part. There are so many styles of containers. Formal courtyards can be graced with potted bay trees, bamboos or camellias. Some pots are especially beautiful and may look best not potted at all. Stone troughs can be planted as miniature gardens or as screens, but they can also be filled with a carpeting plant as a piece of a living sculpture. Whatever your heart desires, can be brought forth in pots, from a tranquil green to the splashes of vibrant color. The reward for all the hard work is being able to sit and relax in a beautiful garden.
Ground rules for container gardens that need to be considered are the potting and re-potting of the plants, the work involved in occasionally changing the soil and most importantly you need to consider the watering of the pots. Is there adequate drainage? All containers have to have holes drilled at the bottom for correct drainage. Is there a water supply nearby? Will you be able to use liquid feeds? Watering is by far the greatest chore and it needs to be done regularly and generously. Rain is never enough on its own and a downpour will fool you into thinking the containers are wetter than they really are. It is important to decide whether to plant all year round or whether to let your pots stand empty in winter. Remember that plants that are hardy in the soil might succumb to the cold when their roots are raised in a container that is open to frosts. Frozen water logged soil can also burst containers as it expands. The same can be said for the summer months when the containers get very hot. It is all too easy to bake the roots of the plant.
With all this in mind, choosing your containers and designing your garden is the fun part. There are so many styles of containers. Formal courtyards can be graced with potted bay trees, bamboos or camellias. Some pots are especially beautiful and may look best not potted at all. Stone troughs can be planted as miniature gardens or as screens, but they can also be filled with a carpeting plant as a piece of a living sculpture. Whatever your heart desires, can be brought forth in pots, from a tranquil green to the splashes of vibrant color. The reward for all the hard work is being able to sit and relax in a beautiful garden.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee-Ann_Clark
Black Thumb? 6 Hard To Kill Plants For Your Garden
By
Lawrence L. Hoyle
Submitted On March 05, 2015
Lawrence L. Hoyle, author, 54 years in the Landscape Profession. Check out his main website at: http://www.web-landscape-design-ideas.com. This website has free Landscape help for Do-It-Yourselves and a online Landscape Design Services for Homeowners, Landscape Contractors and Home Builders. Designs online since 2003 with designs in 40 states. Get your today.!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lawrence__L._Hoyle
If you are one of the many who were not born with a Green Thumb,
there are ways to get your garden off to a glowing start even though you
were not voted 'gardener of the year' in your town. Many people are
trying their hand at gardening for the first time, whether young new
homeowners or those who are leaving the city to move to the suburbs,
many are giving a garden a try, and there are several ways to make sure
that it's successful. First of all, there are some plants that are just
more finicky than others. If your plants for your garden are simply
based on the fact that you like the look of that plant it is probably
not going to turn out to be a very successful gardening venture for you.
If you choose plants that are hardier than the average plant, your
chances for success are much higher.
All plants have preferred growing conditions; however, there are some plants that are more sensitive to having their preferences met than others. There are plenty of plants and flowers that are hardy enough that their preferential growing conditions only have to be approximated, not met exactly. This is good news for the less skilled gardeners out there, not to mention that nobody can actually change the climate anyway. Of course, one can put flowers inside a greenhouse and then control the conditions inside of it to some extent, but if you want plants growing outside, there's really little that one can do aside from choosing a plant that should do well in your climate region and choosing the side of the house whose exposure most closely fits the desired light pattern for a particular plant.
The good news is that there are some plants that are just harder to kill than others. The six below are all excellent options for the new gardener.
1. English Ivy: This plant's beauty is unquestionable, and the plant is really quite hardy. It's difficult to kill and it does a fantastic job of really accenting your whole house instead of just being a single bush or tree in front of your house.
2. Yarrow: This beautiful wildflower spreads easily and looks lovely on open spaces like fields. You can get a lot of bang for your buck by planting Yarrow since it will cover a whole field and make the thing gorgeous.
3. Baby's Breath: This beautiful flower is hardy and it even can survive in dry soils that are more like sand than soil. Baby's Breath is not only an easy plant to grow for the beginning gardener, it's also a great flower to cut and decorate with whether freshly cut or dried.
4. Wood Fern: This basic plant doesn't add color, but the texture of this greenery is very special, a great addition to any garden and easy to grow.
5. Sneezeweed: It doesn't sound very pretty, but its gorgeous colors will brighten up any piece of land. The plant does well in dryer, prairie-like environments, which can often be a difficult zone to find plants that will grow there.
6. California Poppy: Featuring beautiful colors and able to grow in dry climates, these poppies will make your home into a beautiful oasis. Poppies grow easily and are easy to keep up. They also do a lovely job of spreading themselves so that you end up with a beautiful full field of poppies if you let the plant take its natural course.
Try your hand at these plants and you'll probably be pleasantly surprised by how much of a gardener you seem to be. Once you've got the hang of this, going on to more finicky plants will seem much easier.
All plants have preferred growing conditions; however, there are some plants that are more sensitive to having their preferences met than others. There are plenty of plants and flowers that are hardy enough that their preferential growing conditions only have to be approximated, not met exactly. This is good news for the less skilled gardeners out there, not to mention that nobody can actually change the climate anyway. Of course, one can put flowers inside a greenhouse and then control the conditions inside of it to some extent, but if you want plants growing outside, there's really little that one can do aside from choosing a plant that should do well in your climate region and choosing the side of the house whose exposure most closely fits the desired light pattern for a particular plant.
The good news is that there are some plants that are just harder to kill than others. The six below are all excellent options for the new gardener.
1. English Ivy: This plant's beauty is unquestionable, and the plant is really quite hardy. It's difficult to kill and it does a fantastic job of really accenting your whole house instead of just being a single bush or tree in front of your house.
2. Yarrow: This beautiful wildflower spreads easily and looks lovely on open spaces like fields. You can get a lot of bang for your buck by planting Yarrow since it will cover a whole field and make the thing gorgeous.
3. Baby's Breath: This beautiful flower is hardy and it even can survive in dry soils that are more like sand than soil. Baby's Breath is not only an easy plant to grow for the beginning gardener, it's also a great flower to cut and decorate with whether freshly cut or dried.
4. Wood Fern: This basic plant doesn't add color, but the texture of this greenery is very special, a great addition to any garden and easy to grow.
5. Sneezeweed: It doesn't sound very pretty, but its gorgeous colors will brighten up any piece of land. The plant does well in dryer, prairie-like environments, which can often be a difficult zone to find plants that will grow there.
6. California Poppy: Featuring beautiful colors and able to grow in dry climates, these poppies will make your home into a beautiful oasis. Poppies grow easily and are easy to keep up. They also do a lovely job of spreading themselves so that you end up with a beautiful full field of poppies if you let the plant take its natural course.
Try your hand at these plants and you'll probably be pleasantly surprised by how much of a gardener you seem to be. Once you've got the hang of this, going on to more finicky plants will seem much easier.
Lawrence L. Hoyle, author, 54 years in the Landscape Profession. Check out his main website at: http://www.web-landscape-design-ideas.com. This website has free Landscape help for Do-It-Yourselves and a online Landscape Design Services for Homeowners, Landscape Contractors and Home Builders. Designs online since 2003 with designs in 40 states. Get your today.!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lawrence__L._Hoyle
Monday, March 2, 2015
5 Pieces of Equipment Gardeners Cant Live Without
Gardening is fun and rewarding and may be considered a hobby, talent or both and sometimes its just luck. Gardening is not as easy as it looks and involves dedication, time and consistency and many trials and errors. There are many aspects to maintaining a healthy garden, but some aspects are more important than others. An individual who likes to garden can have the knowledge to produce the best garden in the world, but without the right equipment and materials it just wouldn't be possible.
Below you will find a list of the top 5 pieces of equipment which gardeners simply cannot live without:
1. Trowel A trowel is a shovel-like piece of equipment which is used to dig up dirt and set small plants. There are many styles to choose from and type of handle on your trowel will determine how well it works. Easy grip, non-slide and non-slip grips are the best form of handle to choose. These will be easier to use and will require less work than any other form of trowel. A trowel with no grip will be difficult to use and could end up ruining your garden. Try one out in your hand first to ensure it feels comfortable. There's nothing like having your hand cramp or the trowel slip while using it to dig in a beautiful, new plant.
2. Pitchfork A pitchfork is a gardening tool which has 2-6 prongs and a long handle. The sizes of pitchforks vary, depending on what they are being used for. The space between each prong varies as well. Pitchforks are used to separate, lift and throw loose pieces of material such as dirt and leaves.
3. Spade A gardening spade has a long, thick handle and a heavy flat blade. This tool is used to dig up and move pieces of dirt from one place to another. It can also be used to pack down dirt once the flower has been planted.
4. Pruning Shears Pruning shears are tools which have a long handles and blades. This type of gardening equipment is used to allow gardeners to precisely prune rose bushes and other plants and unruly vines, etc. It can also be used to cut the grass at the edges of walkways and garden beds, in those hard to reach places. It is also used to trim the edges and remove dead leaves or wood on flowers. There is no other piece of gardening equipment which can do the same job as pruning shears. Without the use of this piece of equipment, your garden will end up looking messy and disorganized. Always, always, always invest in good quality pruning shears. Good ones have a lifetime guarantee and low-end ones will make shrapnel of your heritage rose.
5. Wheelbarrow A wheelbarrow is one of the larger pieces of garden equipment. It is a cart with a handle and at least one wheel which is designed for easy transportation of materials from one place to another. Purchasing a wheelbarrow will save you a lot of time and effort, especially if you are off to the compost heap, and will make for a pleasant gardening experience. Another option is the 4-wheeled gardening cart.
There are many pieces of gardening equipment which will make this hobby easier and more efficient, however the ones listed above are recognized as the most important. These pieces of equipment will likely last a very long time.
Colin Smith is a freelance write for http://www.gardenequipment101.com a site that features information about playground equipment, swing sets, riding lawn mowers and more.
Friday, February 13, 2015
How to Attract butterflies to your garden
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No matter what kind of gardening experience you have, you can attract butterflies to your garden and enjoy the gorgeous simplicity of Mother Nature’s gift to us.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Gardening with Bamboo
Myths and facts
A misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive. Spreading, however, can easily be controlled if it becomes a problem. Many people also think that bamboos will die when the temperature falls below freezing. This myth is also false.
Designing with bamboo
Bamboos can create a wall or screen to provide privacy, used in containers for your deck, terrace or patio, or create a bamboo forest, maze or retreat - whatever you like!
Bamboos compliment perennials and annuals well and can be used as a background or an accent plant or low border depending on the variety of bamboo used.
Bamboos are actually a grass colony plant with over 1200 species world wide. Approximately 200 species can be grown without complications in North America.
Additional information about bamboo
Certain species of bamboos are runners while others grow in clumps. Some bamboos have narrow leaves and others have wide leaves. When the main stem (known as culms or canes) emerge from the ground or media, they sprout at the diameter they will remain into maturity. Successive clumps will emerge with wider and taller than previous season's.
Running bamboo
The culm is typically hollow except at the nodes, the area where horizontal branches grow. A rhizome is a horizontal "creeping" stem on or just above the ground, from which new shoots grow and roots descend.
Running bamboo's rhizomes may spread a considerable distance from the mother plant. On the contrary, clumping bamboos grow in-place and do not spread out as much (some pruning may be necessary).
Selecting a variety of bamboo
Bamboos have two types of root systems. First are the runners, which is found in temperate environments and is known as runners. The second types are the "clumpers" which are typically found in tropical varieties. This variety will also spread, however, it's not as invasive and only requires pruning to control.
Bamboos are available in various heights and can be trimmed if it gets too tall. A general rule is that taller bamboos require more sunlight than smaller varieties. Tall-growing varieties, like the yellow groove prefers several hours daily, while a smaller variety may tolerate partly shaded environments well.
During the spring, the leaves will yellow and fall from the plant. The loss is gradual as with other types of plants and the leaves are replaced with new foliage.
Health condition
Healthy bamboos should have a combination of yellow leaves, new unfurling leaves, and green leaves. If the foliage is yellowing, falling off and shows no signs of new growth then the bamboo is possibly saturated in water. If the leaves are crisp then it's possible the bamboo is quite dry and needs water immediately.
This article courtesy of http://www.hydroponicsearch.com - The internet's only agriculture, horticulture and aquaculture search engine and community.
A misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive. Spreading, however, can easily be controlled if it becomes a problem. Many people also think that bamboos will die when the temperature falls below freezing. This myth is also false.
Designing with bamboo
Bamboos can create a wall or screen to provide privacy, used in containers for your deck, terrace or patio, or create a bamboo forest, maze or retreat - whatever you like!
Bamboos compliment perennials and annuals well and can be used as a background or an accent plant or low border depending on the variety of bamboo used.
Bamboos are actually a grass colony plant with over 1200 species world wide. Approximately 200 species can be grown without complications in North America.
Additional information about bamboo
Certain species of bamboos are runners while others grow in clumps. Some bamboos have narrow leaves and others have wide leaves. When the main stem (known as culms or canes) emerge from the ground or media, they sprout at the diameter they will remain into maturity. Successive clumps will emerge with wider and taller than previous season's.
Running bamboo
The culm is typically hollow except at the nodes, the area where horizontal branches grow. A rhizome is a horizontal "creeping" stem on or just above the ground, from which new shoots grow and roots descend.
Running bamboo's rhizomes may spread a considerable distance from the mother plant. On the contrary, clumping bamboos grow in-place and do not spread out as much (some pruning may be necessary).
Selecting a variety of bamboo
Bamboos have two types of root systems. First are the runners, which is found in temperate environments and is known as runners. The second types are the "clumpers" which are typically found in tropical varieties. This variety will also spread, however, it's not as invasive and only requires pruning to control.
Bamboos are available in various heights and can be trimmed if it gets too tall. A general rule is that taller bamboos require more sunlight than smaller varieties. Tall-growing varieties, like the yellow groove prefers several hours daily, while a smaller variety may tolerate partly shaded environments well.
During the spring, the leaves will yellow and fall from the plant. The loss is gradual as with other types of plants and the leaves are replaced with new foliage.
Health condition
Healthy bamboos should have a combination of yellow leaves, new unfurling leaves, and green leaves. If the foliage is yellowing, falling off and shows no signs of new growth then the bamboo is possibly saturated in water. If the leaves are crisp then it's possible the bamboo is quite dry and needs water immediately.
This article courtesy of http://www.hydroponicsearch.com - The internet's only agriculture, horticulture and aquaculture search engine and community.
Monday, January 26, 2015
Sunday, January 25, 2015
Bottle Gardening or Terrarium - Design and Maintenance
Women take pride in home decoration and gardening and want some unique and prized possessions that are not part of the neighboring dwellings. Gardening offers opening as there is no end to creativity, especially in the fields of flower arrangement, bonsai, mini-rock garden etc. But a sure and unique possession is a bottle garden. Many of us have seen a ship inside a bottle. This creative craft has given rise to the concept of bottle gardening. Bottle gardening can be compared to an aquarium where fishes survive with regular inputs of water and feed. Like wise, a bottle garden has the essential requirements of soil and water for the survival of plants that are housed in it, but with occasional care and maintenance. Apart from these essential requirements, the bottle garden has reservoir of water which keeps readily available moisture to the plant and also enables a humid environment in the bottle. Bottle gardens if effectively designed can fetch very high price. Selection of plants to be planted for the bottle garden is very important and in quite a few cases people fail to appreciate this fact and try to incorporate any plant they can lay hands up on! An ideal bottle plant is of slow growth and dwarf habit. Because combinations of plants are housed in a bottle garden all the plants selected must be slow growing and dwarf, so that smothering can be avoided. Extremes of temperatures should be avoided and hence the bottle garden should be placed in such a location where there is adequate availability of sunlight. Also the soil or the compost, used in bottle gardens be just adequate for survival of the plants and should not induce vigorous growth.
Bottle gardening can be taken up in many different shapes and sizes and one can even go for custom made glass containers of the size and shape of choice. But containers of the shape of a normal bottle with narrow neck are the most effective for bottle gardens as it helps in proper maintenance of humidity and also for the appearance when the garden gets established.
The first step is to clean the container thoroughly by using water and detergent. Rich compost is avoided, as the plants are chosen for slow growth and dwarf habit. The compost, which is moistened enough but not wet, is put into bottle by means of a paper funnel, preventing the compost from spilling on the sides of the bottle by adhering to the wet surface. It will be beneficial if a layer of crushed charcoal or small sized gravel is put before running in the compost. This layer of charcoal or gravel acts as water reservoir and replenishes the compost or soil with water as and when needed. Small amount of water can be added by the aid of a straw fitted with funnel or running down the water carefully along the inner surface of the bottle.
Coming to planting in the bottle gardens, the plants should have previously grown in small pots so that they have a compact ball of roots with adhering compost. A thin rod or stick be taken to make holes of suitable sizes on the compost layer and the plants are dropped in to these holes, after carefully pressing through the bottle neck.
To increase the aesthetic appearance of a bottle garden, natural things of beauty such as colored and suitably shaped stones or pieces of bark can be placed in the bottle garden. Care must be taken to sterilize such things before introduction as these may carry pests and your bottle garden may get destroyed.
After planting, the bottle neck is plugged with cotton wool. During the day time when the plant receives sunlight, it is advised to turn the position of the bottle periodically to maintain the symmetry of the plants in the bottle, otherwise, asymmetry may be caused because of elongation or more growth of the portion of the plant towards light.
The bottle garden rarely needs watering, but maintenance in terms of removal of accumulated dead leaf and shoots and occasional pruning are necessary for a healthy bottle garden. Direct sunlight causes heavy growth and may even raise the temperature inside the bottle and hence extreme temperatures be avoided.
Few of the plants which can be taken up for bottle garden are Pilea, Selaginella, Peperomoia, Maranta etc.You can experiment a lot, keeping in strict adherence to the rule that the plants grow slow and have a dwarf habit.
If you have the creativity, time and resources, you can develop a beautiful and unique bottle garden, which can be named after yourself. If you dont have such patience, time, energy, creativity or resources, but want to pride yourself with one, there are many stores around that can offer you a fantastic range!
Ravikumar Uppaluri hails from Kaikalur, Krishna District of Andhra Pradesh State in India.The author Holds a Masters degree in Agricultural Sciences.The author is based in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India and is cofounder of an organization involved in Nature conservation and sustainable development. The author can be reached at uravikumar@yahoo.com
Bottle gardening can be taken up in many different shapes and sizes and one can even go for custom made glass containers of the size and shape of choice. But containers of the shape of a normal bottle with narrow neck are the most effective for bottle gardens as it helps in proper maintenance of humidity and also for the appearance when the garden gets established.
The first step is to clean the container thoroughly by using water and detergent. Rich compost is avoided, as the plants are chosen for slow growth and dwarf habit. The compost, which is moistened enough but not wet, is put into bottle by means of a paper funnel, preventing the compost from spilling on the sides of the bottle by adhering to the wet surface. It will be beneficial if a layer of crushed charcoal or small sized gravel is put before running in the compost. This layer of charcoal or gravel acts as water reservoir and replenishes the compost or soil with water as and when needed. Small amount of water can be added by the aid of a straw fitted with funnel or running down the water carefully along the inner surface of the bottle.
Coming to planting in the bottle gardens, the plants should have previously grown in small pots so that they have a compact ball of roots with adhering compost. A thin rod or stick be taken to make holes of suitable sizes on the compost layer and the plants are dropped in to these holes, after carefully pressing through the bottle neck.
To increase the aesthetic appearance of a bottle garden, natural things of beauty such as colored and suitably shaped stones or pieces of bark can be placed in the bottle garden. Care must be taken to sterilize such things before introduction as these may carry pests and your bottle garden may get destroyed.
After planting, the bottle neck is plugged with cotton wool. During the day time when the plant receives sunlight, it is advised to turn the position of the bottle periodically to maintain the symmetry of the plants in the bottle, otherwise, asymmetry may be caused because of elongation or more growth of the portion of the plant towards light.
The bottle garden rarely needs watering, but maintenance in terms of removal of accumulated dead leaf and shoots and occasional pruning are necessary for a healthy bottle garden. Direct sunlight causes heavy growth and may even raise the temperature inside the bottle and hence extreme temperatures be avoided.
Few of the plants which can be taken up for bottle garden are Pilea, Selaginella, Peperomoia, Maranta etc.You can experiment a lot, keeping in strict adherence to the rule that the plants grow slow and have a dwarf habit.
If you have the creativity, time and resources, you can develop a beautiful and unique bottle garden, which can be named after yourself. If you dont have such patience, time, energy, creativity or resources, but want to pride yourself with one, there are many stores around that can offer you a fantastic range!
Ravikumar Uppaluri hails from Kaikalur, Krishna District of Andhra Pradesh State in India.The author Holds a Masters degree in Agricultural Sciences.The author is based in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India and is cofounder of an organization involved in Nature conservation and sustainable development. The author can be reached at uravikumar@yahoo.com
Friday, January 23, 2015
Balcony Patio and Courtyard Gardening
People choose balcony, patio, and courtyard gardening for many different reasons. Some are moving from a large house to smaller accommodation, some dont want the hassle of a large property, and some chose to live in rental property to avoid the high-cost of owning a home. Whatever the reason, this doesnt mean we cant garden. No space is too small for a small space garden. One plant in a container is a garden. In fact, ever more gardening options are available in terms of pots, half-barrels, window boxes, troughs, cast-iron planters, recycled materials the list is unending with possibilities.
Planning a Small Space Garden
When planning your small space garden several steps are fundamental. The first consideration is to determine what purpose this space will serve. Do you want to grow vegetables, herbs, entertain family and friends, meditate, create a place of peace, healing, a memorial garden the list is endless. Next, walk around your space and really look at what you have. Where are doors, sheds, permanent planters located? Is there any clutter? Clear out the clutter by asking yourself: Do I love it? Have I used it in the past year? If it no longer serves you, turf it out, paint it or fix it, give it to somebody who needs it.
If possible, take a chair and sit down, move it around, and think about where the energy feels best for you. Wherever that is, place your seating such as a park bench, lounge, Muskoka chairs, dining furniture, swing, etc. Do you want a formal or informal setting? What features do you want? Features such as water, flowers, vegetables, herbs, wind chimes, wild life, colour, etc. add the finishing touches to your small space garden. Finally, make a plan particularly if you are going to use large features such as a half-barrel. Once filled with soil you will not want to be moving it.
Creating a Small Space Garden
Containers. Generally speaking natural materials such as wood, clay, stone, or cast iron in all their forms make better companions for plants. Remember that wet soil weighs a lot so if you garden on a balcony weight restrictions may apply. Containers made from lighter weight materials such as fibreglass are ideal for roof or balcony gardens. Styles of containers include hanging baskets, wirework stands and baskets, wood window boxes, sinks, troughs, galvanized buckets, old shoes or boots, bathtubs, old tires, and all manner of recycled objects.
Scale. Scale is extremely important in small space gardening. For example, small plants look more balanced in small containers, large plants in large containers. I especially like the effect of vines growing on trellis in half-barrels with smaller plants edging the container. In the half-barrels I use, I have grown many different vines but have found that the effect of scarlet runner pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) is really a knockout with their gorgeous red flowers and you can eat them too.
Microclimates. Which plants prefer which location? Choose plants according to the conditions suitable for their optimum growth. Plants such as begonia (Begonia x semperflorens), coleus (Coleus x hybridous), and Fuchsia (Fuchsia x hybrida) prefer shaded areas while geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum), marigolds (Tagetes erecta), and petunia (Petunia x hybrida) prefer full sun. Wind can be a major factor and damage fragile plants. Choose plants that are wind tolerant such as many of the grasses; the sound of the rustling of the grasses as the wind blows through them is very pleasing to the ear.
Soil. I buy pre-mixed potting soil from the garden centers or shopping malls. These are generally lighter in weight to carry, sterilized to prevent weed seeds from germinating, and contain a lot of peat moss that helps loosen the soil so that it doesnt compact in pots. I also buy organic soil that doesnt have artificial chemicals added as I dump my pots of used soil into the garden where I grow vegetables.
Watering. Check daily as container plants often dry out more quickly. This is especially true if you are using clay pots. Make sure pots have drainage holes, as roots sitting in water will rot. When there has been excessive rain or water, empty saucers that are full. If you garden on a balcony sit plants on something to catch the water so that it doesnt run down on your neighbours.
Fertiliser. Due to frequent watering, container plants require fertiliser on a more consistent basis then plants in the ground do. Use organic fertilisers such as blood meal, bone meal, or fish emulsion, particularly if the soil is going to be added to the garden at the end of the season, as chemical fertilisers harm the wildlife.
Function. When you are creating your small space garden you are actually designing an outdoor room. Keep in mind that this can be colour co-ordinated to appear as an extension of your home. I move my indoor plants outside for the summer (which they love) and design these areas as garden rooms.
Focal point. Create a focal point such as a large pot, tall plant or tree, colour, or a water feature. Perennial vines such as Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) will grow in a large container and come back year after year. Create a sense of mystery by hiding a plant or ornament behind something else to give the pleasure of discovering it.
Colour. In a small space, use three colours such as pinks, blues, and whites; reds, oranges, and yellows; reds, whites, and blues; or reds, whites, and purples that provide continuity rather than too many colours which tend to be distracting. Cool colours make the space appear bigger and brighter while intense colours shrink spaces. A white and green colour theme called a moon garden is more formal and particularly at night is spectacular. Many white flowers are fragrant at night as well.
Lighting. I especially like the small Xmas lights hidden in plants and interwoven throughout a trellis with climbing vines. Up lighting with small spotlights can focus attention on a particular area for evening entertaining.
Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul. She owns the website Gwens Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the book and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca
Gwen Nyhus Stewart 2004 2005. All rights reserved.
Planning a Small Space Garden
When planning your small space garden several steps are fundamental. The first consideration is to determine what purpose this space will serve. Do you want to grow vegetables, herbs, entertain family and friends, meditate, create a place of peace, healing, a memorial garden the list is endless. Next, walk around your space and really look at what you have. Where are doors, sheds, permanent planters located? Is there any clutter? Clear out the clutter by asking yourself: Do I love it? Have I used it in the past year? If it no longer serves you, turf it out, paint it or fix it, give it to somebody who needs it.
If possible, take a chair and sit down, move it around, and think about where the energy feels best for you. Wherever that is, place your seating such as a park bench, lounge, Muskoka chairs, dining furniture, swing, etc. Do you want a formal or informal setting? What features do you want? Features such as water, flowers, vegetables, herbs, wind chimes, wild life, colour, etc. add the finishing touches to your small space garden. Finally, make a plan particularly if you are going to use large features such as a half-barrel. Once filled with soil you will not want to be moving it.
Creating a Small Space Garden
Containers. Generally speaking natural materials such as wood, clay, stone, or cast iron in all their forms make better companions for plants. Remember that wet soil weighs a lot so if you garden on a balcony weight restrictions may apply. Containers made from lighter weight materials such as fibreglass are ideal for roof or balcony gardens. Styles of containers include hanging baskets, wirework stands and baskets, wood window boxes, sinks, troughs, galvanized buckets, old shoes or boots, bathtubs, old tires, and all manner of recycled objects.
Scale. Scale is extremely important in small space gardening. For example, small plants look more balanced in small containers, large plants in large containers. I especially like the effect of vines growing on trellis in half-barrels with smaller plants edging the container. In the half-barrels I use, I have grown many different vines but have found that the effect of scarlet runner pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) is really a knockout with their gorgeous red flowers and you can eat them too.
Microclimates. Which plants prefer which location? Choose plants according to the conditions suitable for their optimum growth. Plants such as begonia (Begonia x semperflorens), coleus (Coleus x hybridous), and Fuchsia (Fuchsia x hybrida) prefer shaded areas while geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum), marigolds (Tagetes erecta), and petunia (Petunia x hybrida) prefer full sun. Wind can be a major factor and damage fragile plants. Choose plants that are wind tolerant such as many of the grasses; the sound of the rustling of the grasses as the wind blows through them is very pleasing to the ear.
Soil. I buy pre-mixed potting soil from the garden centers or shopping malls. These are generally lighter in weight to carry, sterilized to prevent weed seeds from germinating, and contain a lot of peat moss that helps loosen the soil so that it doesnt compact in pots. I also buy organic soil that doesnt have artificial chemicals added as I dump my pots of used soil into the garden where I grow vegetables.
Watering. Check daily as container plants often dry out more quickly. This is especially true if you are using clay pots. Make sure pots have drainage holes, as roots sitting in water will rot. When there has been excessive rain or water, empty saucers that are full. If you garden on a balcony sit plants on something to catch the water so that it doesnt run down on your neighbours.
Fertiliser. Due to frequent watering, container plants require fertiliser on a more consistent basis then plants in the ground do. Use organic fertilisers such as blood meal, bone meal, or fish emulsion, particularly if the soil is going to be added to the garden at the end of the season, as chemical fertilisers harm the wildlife.
Function. When you are creating your small space garden you are actually designing an outdoor room. Keep in mind that this can be colour co-ordinated to appear as an extension of your home. I move my indoor plants outside for the summer (which they love) and design these areas as garden rooms.
Focal point. Create a focal point such as a large pot, tall plant or tree, colour, or a water feature. Perennial vines such as Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) will grow in a large container and come back year after year. Create a sense of mystery by hiding a plant or ornament behind something else to give the pleasure of discovering it.
Colour. In a small space, use three colours such as pinks, blues, and whites; reds, oranges, and yellows; reds, whites, and blues; or reds, whites, and purples that provide continuity rather than too many colours which tend to be distracting. Cool colours make the space appear bigger and brighter while intense colours shrink spaces. A white and green colour theme called a moon garden is more formal and particularly at night is spectacular. Many white flowers are fragrant at night as well.
Lighting. I especially like the small Xmas lights hidden in plants and interwoven throughout a trellis with climbing vines. Up lighting with small spotlights can focus attention on a particular area for evening entertaining.
Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul. She owns the website Gwens Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the book and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca
Gwen Nyhus Stewart 2004 2005. All rights reserved.
Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Butterfly Gardening
Butterfly gardening is not only a joy, it is one way that you can help restore declining butterfly populations. Simply adding a few new plants to your backyard may attract dozens of different butterflies, according to landscape designers at the University of Guelph.
Butterflies, like honeybees, are excellent pollinators and will help increase your flower, fruit and vegetable production if you provide them with a variety of flowers and shrubs. They are also beautiful to watch, and are sometimes called "flowers on the wing."
- Begin by seeding part of your yard with a wildflower or butterfly seed mix, available through seed catalogues and garden centers. Wildflowers are a good food source for butterflies and their caterpillars.
- Choose simple flowers over double hybrids. They offer an easy-to-reach nectar source.
- Provide a broad range of flower colors. Some butterflies like oranges, reds and yellows while others are drawn toward white, purple or blue flowers.
- Arrange wildflowers and cultivated plants in clumps to make it easier for butterflies to identify them as a source of nectar.
- If caterpillars are destroying favorite plants, transfer them by hand to another food source. Avoid the use of pesticides, which can kill butterflies and other beneficial insects.
- Some common caterpillar food sources are asters, borage, chickweed, clover, crabgrass, hollyhocks, lupines, mallows, marigold, milkweed or butterfly weed, nasturtium, parsley, pearly everlasting, ragweed, spicebush, thistle, violets and wisteria. Caterpillars also thrive on trees such as ash, birch, black locust, elm and oak.
- Annual nectar plants include ageratum, alyssum, candy tuft, dill, cosmos, pinks, pin cushion flower, verbena and zinnia.
- Common perennial nectar plants include chives, onions, pearly everlasting, chamomile, butterfly weed, milkweeds, daisies, thistles, purple coneflower, sea holly, blanket flower, lavender, marjoram, mints, moss phlox, sage, stonecrops, goldenrod, dandelion and valerian.
Remember that butterflies are cold-blooded insects that bask in the sun to warm their wings for flight and to orient themselves. They also need shelter from the wind, a source of water, and partly shady areas provided by trees and shrubs.
Copyright 2005 Jane Lake
About the Author: Jane Lake is a professional writer whose articles have appeared in Canadian Living, You, Modern Woman, and Highlights magazines.
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